Sand, Surf, and (Some) Sun

 

View from our $3.50 per night hostal

We’ve been lucky enough over the past month to do some extensive traveling around Ecuador, as you all know, and I have spent quite a bit of that time at the coast. I’ve been to the small beach towns of Ballenita, Montañita, and Canoa; also one brief (and yet too long) trip to a larger pueblo called Puerto Lopez. Unfortunately (and inexplicably) no one told us that the coast is basically cloudy every day from September through December, the only months we’ve travelled to the beaches. Despite the gloomy skies, the weather is comfortable and balmy, and you can still catch some of the equator’s harsh rays. Sometimes the sun breaks through the clouds, teasing you with the glory you know Ecuador’s coast exudes during the high season.

The weather and scenery change quite drastically between inland cities and the coastal towns, among other stark contrasts. The comida is noticeably different, with cheap, fresh, and abundant seafood available at every open air restaurant lining the sea. I’ve had the pleasure now of trying ceviche, and my life will never be the same. A chilled, fresh bowl of ceviche de camerones accompanied by a hot plate of homemade plátano chips makes life worth living.

Another difference encountered a la playa is the people—their style, mannerisms, dialect, and slang are markedly different from Quitonians. We’ve found that the coastal people are definitely more open, much more talkative, and more direct than those in the bigger cities. This proves to be both good and bad; the former because socializing and going out is quite fun, the latter because as a gringa some local guys can be quite annoying. In addition to the local gente, the coast also allows one to mingle and meet other travelers from all over; South Americans and Westerners alike. Some of our most absolute favorite fellow travelers we’ve met at the beach– from hilarious platinum blond Canadian surfers to silly Argentineans and Brazillians. Despite our varying backgrounds and histories, we all share special commonalities: a love for travel, a love for the beach, a love for making connections with perfect strangers, a love for expanding our views of the world and all the amazing people in it.

Montañita, a very small town known for surfing and socializing, I’ve visited twice now. Montañita provided us with a few things wehad yet to encounter in Ecuador, namely, house music (!!), hippy culture, and an overpowering sense of working to live, rather than living to work– never forgetting that a party is only a

Typical 'street' in Montanita

few blocks and a few hours away. While the lazy days and the long nights are too much for some, others literally drop everything they are doing to shack up and stay for years at a time, if not life. There, the lack of cars, noise (other than music), pollution, and, well, responsibility, is alluring for some, appalling for others. Erin was ready to leave after spending 3 days there; I was ready to set up shop. In all reality, I could not see myself living there for a long period of time, but I imagine the draw of moseying around a small surf town for me was born from living in a city as big and crowded as Beijing for 2 years, and a pervasive longing for the beach, after nearly 7 years in San Diego. There is no saying where I will end up after our job in Cuenca comes to a close, but the idea of setting up a daily schedule of studying Spanish, volunteering, working, and surfing under the Ecuadorian sun sounds like a dream come true.

Which brings me to surfing. Part of my recent obsession with the coast is that I finally gave surfing another shot after only one half-baked attempt in San Diego.

Surfing in Canoa

Erin and I were offered “free” surf lessons in Canoa—I shockingly caught the first wave and was immediately addicted. The waves aren’t very big right now down here–perfect for beginners–and alongside a coach and a few pointers, I found the sport to be surprisingly achievable. I have no illusions that I am actually a good surfista (or even a surfista in the slightest) but the idea that with some more practice I could be a decent surfer is very real and very exciting. I took one more class in Montañita last week; the waves being slightly larger & more powerful than in Canoa made me realize how much work I have to do. I went out sin teacher on my last day in Montañita, definitely got thrown around & tired out, but the waves I did successfully catch left me with a feeling of exhilaration that far outweighed any frustrated feelings and the aching of my tired and bruised body.

While playing all things by ear, as always, don’t be surprised if you find the future me spending the time between life and social responsibilities surfing and soaking up the sun by day and playing guitar, singing around bonfires, and dancing by night. Esa es la vida.

 

-T